今天是尼泊尔的holi，我冒着随时都会被＂提卡＂涂脸的风险出发去徒步登山。背了轻便的背包，出发去莎朗搁。从pokhara沿湖往东走，走过街道穿过田野，来到一条由大大小小的石头铺成的路，看着这条路的斜度我知道要吃苦了。走平路缓缓上山还好，可是走在凹凸不平的石块上还真折磨我的腿。路上小朋友看游客，很兴奋的从下面一路追跑着上来喊：’hello，one dollar ！’ 看你没反应就喊：’give me sweet！give me sweet!” 看着他们在山坡上小跑步，我真的非常羡慕他们的体质。这种从小被大自然锻炼出来的体魄是我们怎么羡慕也羡慕不来的。我的导游christ是个温文优雅的年轻人，我觉得比起导游他更像个诗人。他不时的回头问我他是不是走太快了？我每次都跟他挥挥手说：“没关系” 中途休息的时候我们聊天他告诉我他上夜校修读文学，一面打工一面赚钱。他诗人的气质果然是有来头的。这还不是让我惊讶的，他的文采一天后让我真正的见识到了。到了莎朗搁，今天空气素质不好烟雾弥漫的什么风景都看不到。不过地势高所以有点冷！看见村落里的小孩们手里都抓了一把提卡，不管看见谁都往脸上涂，每个小孩甚至一些大人的脸上和身上都五颜六色的。我看了就拿着相机追着他们跑拍，开始的时候大家都很害羞，扭扭捏捏，后来有个年纪比较大的女生问我可以给我一个提卡吗？我笑咪咪的说好！她狡猾的一笑，用大拇指头狠狠的在我额头勾出一条长长的提卡。我也不反击任由她去。有小孩更夸张，把提卡灌水，想泼人，后来被妈妈阿姨们制止了。我趁形势没变严重之前跑人，躲进我小小的房间里洗澡，把一天的汗酸味都洗掉，打开莲蓬流出来的温水是细细的一柱，也还只是比冰水稍微的没那么的冰而已，我几乎是以光速的时间洗澡，换衣，换好衣服手掌是红的。离晚餐还有一段时间，我走出阳台看见小朋友们已经三三两两的散去，便告诉christ我下去村落拍照。
It is nepal’s holiday today and I faced the risk of being sprinkled or splashed with colourful powders on my face while on the way to trek the mountains. From Pokhara, I headed east along the lake and walked past the streets and the fields and arrived pebbles road. By looking at the road ahead, I know that it is going to be a tough journey ahead. Walking on level road up the hill should be quite okay but walking on uneven pebble road is torturing to my legs. The children were excited upon seeing tourists and ran up to them and shouted “hello, give me one dollar”” if there was no reaction from the tourist, they will say “give me sweet, give me sweet” By looking at how they ran up and down the hill, being brought up by such stamina since young, I can only envy. My tour guide, Chris is a young, graceful young man. He looks more like a poet than a tour guide. He will turn back occasionally and asked if he was talking too fast and I was coping well. I will wave to him and said I’m doing fine. During the break intervals, we chatted and he told me that he was attending night classes. It was hazy when we reached the destination but it was cooling. When we reached the villages, most of the kids were holding something on their hand, no matter who they see, they started drawing their faces. I grabbed my camera and started snapping them. In the beginning, everyone was quite shy and one of them approached me and asked if she can draw on my face and I agreed. She grinned and started drawing on my forehead. There are kids who mixed them with water and wanted to splash it at other people but were stopped by their mothers and aunties. I took this opportunity to sneak off and went back to my room to have a shower. The water was slightly cold. I changed but my palm is still red. I walked out of the balcony, most of the children had left by then and I told chris that I wanted to the village to take photographs.
正为一只躺在围墙上的大狗拍照，就被主人请进家里坐，实在不想打扰，可是又好奇人家农村生活，就站在人家围墙外跟主人聊天。能够聊起来是因为他英语说的溜，他叫kali，年轻时是个porter，做了20多年，因为脚不好，年纪也大了所以就改作一些小买卖。porter是那些帮登山游客背露营用的帐蓬，炊，锅，炉等用具上山的人，如果途中没餐馆，porter还负责做饭。一个porter平均背上40到60公斤的背包。很多porter体型瘦小，为了赚钱他们背上比自己体重还重的背包，日复一日到老，体力走下坡被淘汰为止。他们的收入也只是400rs一天。夏天雪溶化的时候，会发现跌下山崖或劳累而死的porter的尸体。长年累月的过劳是他们猝死的原因。话说回来，kali的脚是小时候家里穷，冬天的时候大家都围着火炉睡觉，一天失火了脚就这样被烧坏了，因为家在山上，送到山下医院的时候已经是5个小时后的事了。爸爸为了救他，把房子给卖了，虽然救回了脚，可是一家人从此就得付昂贵的租金度日。他把我唤进屋子，给我拉了张凳子坐下，以前的年代阶级观念很重，他们是属于最低的劳动阶级，劳动一辈子也只是仅仅够糊口。他把裤角拉高给我看他他缺一块肉的脚跟。我佩服他那坚毅的魄力，虽然缺了肉，可是没有怨天尤人。说因为当很多年老外的porter才把英语学起来，可是会讲不会看，他把一个游客写给他的信拿给我希望我帮他翻译，我还满喜欢这个谦卑憨厚的男人，他跟我爸的年纪很接近，他手里捏着一种只在尼泊尔生长的干花，把里面的种子捏出来。他说：＂春天的时候我会把这种子种满我的小庭院，开花的时候摘下来帮在一起，好让妻子带去庙里供奉。给你几个种子带回去吧。＂我看着他善良的脸也不好意思拒绝，就把他递来的花种子收进口袋里。看着这么纯朴的一家人，心里想尼泊尔到底还有多少像这样需要帮助的人。。尼泊尔是世界上最穷的国家之一，可是我真觉得他们是少数最知足的民族之一。。回去酒店的路上，我淘出口袋里花的种子握在手心，我对自己小声说：“ 你看，这些都是爱，满满都是爱。”
I was taking picture of a big dog by the fence and was invited by the owner to their house. I felt bad to disturb them but at the same time I was curious about the living of a villager so I stood outside the fence and talked to them. I was able to chat with him because he can speak fluent English. His name is kali, he had been a porter for 20 over years when he was young but because he has leg problem so he switched to doing some small business when he get older. Porter helped mountaineers to carry their stuffs such as camping apparatus, pots, stove etc up the hill, if need, he helped them to prepare food as well. He carried up to 60kg but earned only 400rs per day. Kali’s leg was injured when he was young. During winter, everyone was asleep around the fire to keep warm and one day, his legs were caught in the fire. His house was on the hill top and it took about 5 hours to get down the hill to the hospital. His dad sold the house to raise money to save him, although they managed to save his legs, they went into poverty. Kali invited me in and pull a stool for me to sit. He lifted up his pants and showed me his heel without a piece of flesh. I admire his firm and absolute boldness, despite all these, he didn’t complain or blame anyone. He can speak English but can’t read and passed me a letter written by a tourist and hope that I can translate for him. I quite like this humble man. He is around my dad’s age. He held some Nepal dried flowers in his hand and took out the seeds. He said “during spring, he will plant these seeds in his small garden and when they bloom, he will get his wife to bring them to the temple to consecrate” He gave me some seeds to bring back, I feel bad to reject them and put them in my pocket. After seeing these people leading simple life which set me thinking, how many more people need such help like kali and his family. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world but I feel that they are the one who are the most contented group of people. On the way back to my hotel, I hold the seeds in my palm and whispered to myself “you see, this is love, full with love…”
kali一家
